‘The discovery of a new dish, does more to human happiness, than the discovery of a new star.’
Brillat Savarin
It’s not every day that you have the chance to drink wine in a church, but at Lyon des Sables in Walvis Bay, an old apostolic church has been converted into a French restaurant. The two owners, David Thomas and Virgile Meiller, retained the arched windows, transforming the interior into stylish space. Two purple walls greet you when you enter, while a chocolate-brown colour is seen from the other side. The walls with their gastronomic quotes, the wooden tables and the striking silver central light fitting create a pleasant dining area. The aroma of food simmering in wine wafts through the restaurant, tantalising your taste buds.
The French partners met while studying in France. Virgile had already spent some time in Namibia, completing his schooling in Windhoek and in Walvis Bay, where his parents live. It didn’t take much to convince David to accompany him on a trip to the country, visiting popular tourist destinations like Etosha and Spitzkoppe. Three years later, in 2008, they visited again, this time chatting to Virgile’s parents about opening a restaurant in Walvis Bay, combining David’s culinary experience with Virgile’s training in hotel management and knowledge of wine. In late October, Virgile’s mother contacted them to let them know that the old church in Walvis Bay was available for lease. They transformed the church into a venue for an entirely different religious experience, and opened their restaurant on 19 March 2009.
Lyon des Sables, meaning Lion of the Sands, is a play on the word Lyon, as the partners hail from Lyon in France. Using Namibian ingredients such as crayfish, game, kingklip and Kalahari truffles, they prepare the food, adding their French touch, focusing on different textures, tastes and colours. They offer a dining experience, rather than just a meal, believing that the wine, music, food and atmosphere all contribute to the experience.
For the uninitiated, the menu is a religion all of its own. It begins with starters such as crème brûlée with piquillos, olive cake and beetroot chantilly; carrot and pineapple soup with cumin, marinated salmon and caramelised peanuts; and prawns à la plancha, with mango-chorizo chutney and coriander oil. There is a choice of vegetarian, fish or meat for the mains, and delicious desserts. Also included is an option called ‘menu degustration’, translating loosely as a menu of discovery, where dishes will be created especially for the diner, taking into consideration his preferences, eliminating any flavours he doesn’t like or food he is allergic to. The wines are chosen by the sommelier to accompany the dishes and to accentuate the various flavours of the food. Every dish is decorated with artistic flourishes of basil oil, balsamic reduction, cherry tomatoes and fried spaghetti, and every mouthful is a taste sensation, each item having its own distinct flavour. The journey of discovery is a different way of travelling – a culinary journey.
To finish off the meal, small glasses of bubblegum mousse are brought through, topped with Frizzy pazzy (éclats de sucre pétillants) that surprisingly fizz and pop in the mouth, ending the dining experience with a treat, gift and laughter.
Adding the French touch to Namibian cuisine elevates the Namibian taste and tendency for meat, contributing a French flair to culinary delights, and making the meal a creative dining experience.
Lyon des Sables also caters for private parties and conferences, something to keep in mind for a special event. The food, wine and cocktail menu changes every two to three months.
FACT FILE Lyon des Sables, Walvis Bay Corner Theo Ben Gurirab Street and 10th Road Lunch: 12–14.30 (Tues–Fri) Dinner: 18.30–21.30 (every night) For reservations: 064 22 1220 e-mail: lyondessables@gmail.com